Our schedule only mentioned that we would be attending Paella cooking demonstration. So we assumed that we would be in a resturant in the city or at perhaps a demonstration kitchen in classroom at the culinary school. When we hopped on a subway I wasn't that surprised, most of our activities up to that point had taken part in the central part of the city so I figured this would be more on the outskirts. We travelled along and until we left the underground and immerged back into the light. That was when I realized we were headed somewhere a little different, we were leaving the city completely.
Shortly there after we arrived at our stop, we left the train and walked through a quiet little town a few minutes north of Valencia. It was strange, after being in the city for even such a short time coming to this small town felt so isolated and peaceful. I had assumed that we would be going to a small family resturant in town. I was right, and wrong.
We passed straight through town and upon reaching the edge we crossed a small street and stepped down onto a sidewalk. Well, maybe sidewalk is a little too generous. Really it was a path that was paved over an irrigation ditch between two feilds. There was a 2.5 foot drop off to the left and it inexplicably got narrower at the half way point. At the end of the path our guide, Manuel, turned up a gravel drive. We weren't going to a resturant, we were headed to a farm. Toni's farm to be exact.
Toni is a farmer and chef who believes that food should take as few steps as possible to get from the farm to the table. He also believes that dining should be a slow moving, family based experience. So he opened up his home to those that want to enjoy a traditional Spanish paella experience, and according to Manuel many in Valencia consider it to be the finest paella in the region1.
Upon our arrival we were all taken aback by where we were. No one expected this. We looked around the courtyard and talked to one another about how amazing this all was. Some of the students couldn't get over the fact that there were chickens just freely roaming about2. An older gentleman came over to Manuel and greeted him, Manuel introduced us to Toni and told us that Toni would be showing us around the farm and demonstrating how to make his paella.
We headed out away from the main house past some animal pens. Ducks, goats, donkeys, basically what you'd expect on the farm. Having spent some time as a part time chicken wrangler and farmers market employee it is easy to forget how fun it can be to unexpectedly come across farm animals. However, my students were very quick to remind me. It was so great to watch them laugh, take pictures with, and generally just be amazed by these beautiful animals. Getting to watch my students experience all these new opportunities has definitely been one of the greatest joys of this trip, it's something I look forward to every day we are here. Once we finally got them past the animals Toni took us out to into his fields where he harvested the greens and beets we would be having for lunch. Once he cut free a head of lettuce he would toss it to our students. At which point they noticed the bugs on the vegetables and freaked out a little. And thus did our students have their first experience with truly organic farming.
Side note: Toni is a big believer in organic farming. He doesn't want to have to use any GMO corn so he grows his own and keeps his own seeds. In fact Toni's whole operation really ran close to my heart. When I was back in Bloomington cooking for community dinner I would often think about what type of situation I could find myself in to be happy as a cook. I decided that for me to be happy I would have to have home based experience. Where I would have a set meal for a day and people would come in and sit at diningroom tables and enjoy whatever I made that day. It would include fresh purchased items to ensure freshness and would be very communal in its feel. This is similar to what Toni has going on. He welcomes people into his home for lunch but lunch happens at the scheduled time whether you are there or not. But you are welcome to stay and relax and eat as slow as you wish. Manuel told me that some people will stay from 1 until 6 (we were there until 5 or so).
Finally the time was upon us and we headed into the resturant proper for dinner. And what a dinner! This was a multicourse affair. I didn't get pictures of EVERY course, but I got most of them.
Of course we started with bread, what else would you expect. Spaniards freaking LOVE bread. So we had bread, with a tomato-olive oil spread. It tasted great, but it's a total trap. Don't fill up on bread people.
Round 2: Fried potatoes
No picture of this one. But I can describe it for you. Imagine fried potato cubes about two or three times the size of home fries from Denny's. Now season them with something that tastes similar to seasoning salt. Lastly put a huge blob of garlic mayonnaise on the top5. There you have it.
Round 3: Salad
There may have been an additional course in here but for the life of me I can't think of it at the moment. However, this salad with forever be in my brain. As will just about anytime in Spain that I was able to enjoy fresh vegetables. We went to town on these salads, it was made all the better by the fact that we helped to pick the lettuce and beets used.
Round 4: Paella
Traditional Valencian Paella includes: rabbit, chicken, green beans, butter beans, rice, and deliciousness. It was amazing. I was already feeling full but it didn't matter, I still ate every bite.
Round 5: Dessert
No pictures, sorry. It was a choice of orange slices or a wedge of roasted pumpkin. I went with the orange slices because I can roast a pumpkin myself in the states, I can't eat a fresh from the farm Valencian orange. I regret nothing.
Round 6: Port wine
We ended dinner with some port wine. It was very sweet, and very strong. Our students didn't really enjoy it all that much. I thought it was great.
So that was our day at Toni's. It's sad that it took me so long to write this. I literally had most of it done a week and a half ago. I'm going to try to keep updating with various stories from the trip over the next couple of weeks. Thanks for reading!
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1) Based on my, admittedly, limited experience I would have to agree.
2) Some of them desperately wanted to pick up the chicks that were there.
3) I don't know what it's really called, but its a little three sided structure where they had fires for cooking paella, so we'll go with firehouse.
4) A traditional component of paella, these delicious little beans were so tasty a number of students brought some back to the states with them.
5) Because if there's one thing people in spain love as much as bread it's mayonaise. It was inescapable. I once got mayonnaise with my paella (a rice dish), because Spain.




