Take a city bus to a specific stop. Leave bus and transfer to another. Leave second bus and walk to the stop for the bus out of town. The stop will only be marked by a small sign and will arrive at 4:00pm. Ride the bus bound for El Palmar for 30 minutes, it will drop you off at the edge of town. Make sure you are back at the stop at 8 because that's the last bus back into town.
It was a little convoluted but it seemed do able so we planned to meet up in the afternoon after the girls finished their last lunch with their homestay families. We opened the trip to anyone that was interested but in the end my travel companions were once again Kate and Emily.
I met Kate and Emily and the first leg of our journey went off with out a hitch. We caught our two city buses and arrived at the point that Manuel had described with over half and hour to spare. There was even a little yellow sign and a guy waiting by it. Success!
It was an unusually cold, cloudy, and windy day in Valencia. We had been spoiled with amazing weather our whole trip and now things were a little more uncomfortable. There was no bench or shelter at this bus stop so to help keep warm we just sat on the sun-soaked sidewalk. I'm sure we looked quite absurd. As four o'clock approached two things happened. One good, one not so much. The good was that other people started milling about this bus stop, which definitely filled me with some confidence. The not so good? Rain. It wasn't for long but it did start raining fairly heavily while we waited. So Emily, Kate and I took shelter as best we could underneath a small tree that was nearby. It served it's purpose, though now we were both cold and wet.
As we were waiting for our bus we kept seeing touring buses arrive and stop near where we were but not where we were. Kate, being ever so helpful, began asking if we were in the right location. Was I sure that this is where our bus would pick up? There are other buses stopping across the street, are you sure that's not where we should be?
No, Kate, I said, this is where Manuel told us to be. I'm sure we are in the right place. (Fun fact, I was NOT at all sure we were in the right place. That doubt would soon increase).
Things got really interesting when four o'clock came and went and no bus arrived. Well, that's is to say no buses arrived at our stop. Plenty of other buses passed us and stopped near us, and every time Kate would ask if we try to find a different stop. I told her that we were absolutely in the right place, because when you lead a trip like this sometimes the best thing you can do it put down a huge line of bullshit. The only thing that kept me sticking with my story was that the other people waiting were a) still waiting and b) looked as perplexed at the lateness as we did.
Finally at 4:30 a bus pulled up. Kate, who speaks better Spanish then she gives herself credit for, asked the young guys who was initially waiting for the bus if it was headed to El Palmar. He spoke to the driver who confirmed that it was, in fact, our bus. I breathed a deep sign of relief at knowing I did not ruin our last day in town.
We hopped on board and grabbed the seats way in the back. On our trip we chatted and bullshitted about who knows what. After a little while there was a break in tall grass to our right and we had our first great look at the lake. It was beautiful (and we learned the week before that it was the biggest lake in Spain) and our excitement grew.
| The lake, as seen from out bus ride home. |
Then our bus unexpectedly turned left, away from the lake.
What a bunch of idiots.
We strolled into El Palmar in the same manner that we moved through just about every Spanish city that we visited. We picked a road and started walking, in what we assumed was the direction of the park. El Palmar was a strange little town. On the Main Street every single building housed a restaurant. All of them had tables and chairs set up on the sidewalks. It seemed incredibly quaint.
And yet, it was empty.
We walked up and down the streets of El Palmar multiple times throughout the day and all together we saw, perhaps, 7 people. It was like something out of the Twilight Zone, everyone had been kidnapped and was currently being replaced by pod people. If only we were there the next day I'm sure we would have met a large number of kind people with vacant looks in their eyes.
It was really quite upsetting to be in such a deserted town, especially after being in some of the most crowded cities in the country. But we didn't have much time to think about it. We had a park to explore and not much time in which to explore it. So onward we went. I was using my incredibly unreliable and crappy cellphone to navigate us to where we needed to be. I kept saying things like, "I think it's this way" or "it seems like it should be down this road." I'm sure I filled the girls with a great deal of confidence.
We can to what can only be described as a dirt path that headed away from the road for a bit before curving around a bend. According to the map this road would lead us directly to the park. I told Kate and Emily that's the direction we needed to go. Emily was, as usual, all for it. Kate was, as usual, a little more hesitant, but she was a trooper and came right along (also she's a Type 2, so she was going to go where ever we left anyway). So we headed down the path, wondering just where it would lead us. As we came around the bend I just had to laugh. In the middle of the path was a tractor, a truck, and a car. Along with a few farmers having a chat. To either side of the path? Rice fields. As far as the eye could see.
There is no park. That's the punchline of the joke. Or, I guess more accurately, the park was the rice fields. It wasn't a park in the traditional American sense, it was there to protect the land and the paella rice fields. So we walked down these paths, laughing and talking. We told stories to one another, each more ridiculous than the last. It was one of my most cherished moments of the trip, and that walk between the rice paddies was my moment that most typifies my Spanish experience.
| The typifying moment. |
Eventually we would, we got right up to the edge. But before that Emily schemed about how to steal fruit that was hanging just out of reach. Kate befriended a sickly looking feral cat (she had to chase it was Harry and the Hendersons style). We attempted to, and initially failed at, taking a selfie (thanks zoom lens). And we discovered an oddly out of place hotel that included a group of gentlemen sitting on the porch sharing a bottle of Johnny Walker, it was like something out of a movie. I'd really wished that I could speak Spanish so I could chat with those guys.
We finally did get close to the lake. Obviously it would have been optimal to have found a beach, or a park, or, hell, even like a boat ramp or a pier. Instead what we found was a cemetery (really more of a mausoleum). Behind the cemetery was a small garden, a chimney that I hope wasn't for cremating bodies, and the lake. It was about as unglamorous as it gets, and totally in line with what our day had been like thus far.
| Our astonishing lakeside view, cemetery adjacent. |
Eventually we realized this glimpse, this taste of the lake was as close as we were going to get. So we decided to head back to El Palmar to get a drink and kill time before our bus came.
I don't know if I can put into words how great it was to spend so much time with Kate and Emily. Any time you go through an experience like this trip you are going to get to know the people you are with on a deeper level. I had the amazing opportunity to watch these two amazing young women get to know themselves better and get to know each other better as well. As an added bonus I got to know them better. There were conversations that I had with each of them individually that I will always cherish. And there were moments, like sharing a pitcher of sangria in the one freaking restaurant that was open in all of El Palmar, that will always make me smile.
I've been doing my job for just about two years now and I still tell people that I meet that it is the best job that I've ever had. Experiences like this day, knowing students like Emily and Kate, that's why I love my job. It has been my absolute joy and honor to have gotten to know these two young women. To be there when things are good, and to be there for them when things are at their worst. They drive me up the wall at times, but more often they make me smile and laugh and love life more.
| Wisely taken in the middle of a one-way bridge. |
This post went on way longer than I had expected. I didn't even get to the trip home, which was full of it's own misadventures. Especially for the girls.
But that's their story, not mine.
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1) Vonnegut, Kurt. Cat's Cradle. New York; Dell, 1963.
2) Bryson, Bill. Neither Here Nor There: Travels in Europe. New York; William Morrow Paperbacks, 1992.
3) Niffenegger, Audrey. Her Fearful Symmetry. London; Scribner, 2009.
4) Quote by G.K. Chesterton
5) Twain, Mark. Tom Sawyer Abroad. New York; Charles L. Webster & Co, 1894.
6) Riley, Penelope. Travel Absurdities. iUniverse, 2008.







